Nagasaki part 1; Darkness & light. Visiting the atomic bomb memorials and museum and how exploring the city proved my expectations wrong...
originally posted in 2017
Reaching Nagasaki from Fukuoka Hakata Rail Station
The journey from Hakata station in Fukuoka to Nagasaki by Limited Express train takes around 2 hours. There are limited high-speed Shinkansen lines in the Fukuoka region, so it can take a little longer to get around than in other areas of Japan. The Ltd. Exp. Kamome trains are comfortable and the journey is covered by various Japan Rail passes with reservation.Judging from the guidebooks, we knew that a day wouldn’t be long enough to experience much, but we were resolved to visit the Peace Park and Atomic Bomb Museum in addition to exploring the Lantern Festival festival at the very least. We had attempted to find a hotel in or near to Nagasaki so that we could stay the previous night, after visiting nearby Arita, but we’d left those plans too late and everything was either booked up or too expensive.
Nagasaki deserves more than one day
To be honest with you, I wasn’t sure I was going to like Nagasaki; the impression I got from articles and YouTube was of a clinical, ultra-touristy port harbour on the cruise liner trail. Well, some of that may be true, but as far as it’s lack of personality, I couldn’t have been more wrong. It didn’t take long to realise that this is somewhere that deserves another, much longer visit.A city shaped by hope for a better future
For obvious reasons, a visit to Nagasaki could be considered with apprehension. I had this mindset when I visited Hiroshima on our first visit to Japan in 2015. I’m not too sure what I expected on that occasion. I suppose halfway around the world a preconceived idea is formed based on available information - with most of that being school history lessons, documentaries and photographs that are all focused on one historical event and the circumstances around it.People even asked me why I would want to visit - wasn’t it depressing, negative, insensitive or just plain wrong? As a result, did I expect a rubble-strewn wasteland, a time-frozen ghost town instead of the vibrant, positive city that exists now? I don’t know - I really did want to find out for myself though.
What I know now is that Hiroshima is a wonderful, modern city that embraces the future with energy and optimism. Nagasaki is no different. It is a city full of history and culture with a rich identity that was embedded long before 9th August 1945 and one that continues to adapt and grow now. That moment in time cannot and has not been overlooked in Nagasaki - it undoubtedly shapes the city but does not uniquely define it. Rather, it appears that the resulting strength, optimism and hope for a better future does.
What I know now is that Hiroshima is a wonderful, modern city that embraces the future with energy and optimism. Nagasaki is no different. It is a city full of history and culture with a rich identity that was embedded long before 9th August 1945 and one that continues to adapt and grow now. That moment in time cannot and has not been overlooked in Nagasaki - it undoubtedly shapes the city but does not uniquely define it. Rather, it appears that the resulting strength, optimism and hope for a better future does.
The Peace Park & Atomic Bomb Museum
We headed off to the Peace Park and as soon as we arrived it started to rain hard. A short walk from the tram stop, access to the area is via stairs or escalator.
We spent some time wandering around the park, viewing the statues and memorials. Plenty of information was provided and was very well presented in multiple languages; a small number of volunteers were also available to answer questions and extend understanding.
We moved on to the Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum (which I thought was a bit tricky to find - Google Maps came in handy).
Emotionally exhausting, disconcerting, uncomfortable and upsetting at times but incredible, hugely insightful, educational, empowering too. Excellent audio guides provide translation and context throughout and are well worth the extra 150 yen. The design of the museum exhibit is very clever, with a descent down a spiral timeline propelling you back into the past and to the full horror of the events.
Gradually, moving through the exhibit you gently emerge as time moves forward to the present and future. I think it would be hard not to leave touched. I know I felt drained. The rain had stopped at last and we walked over the road to the Hypocenter Memorial. Better informed, we contemplated and gathered our thoughts before moving on.
Discover Nagasaki - official visitor information site
Hyperdia - Japan rail planner
Coming soon - Part 2: Nagasaki Lantern Festival - light after darkness.
