Visiting Nanzo-in Temple and Dazaifu by train from Fukuoka, including travel, transport and food tips. Read about our calamitous but exciting journey and the importance of having a plan B (+ internet connectivity)!
Originally published in 2017 - rail routes not checked/updated. Travel resource links updated.
Visiting Nanzo-in Temple and Dazaifu by rail.
Slow travel
Things don’t always go as expected, even with the most meticulous of planning. Today was just one of those days. We wanted to visit Nanzo-in Temple at Sasaguri in addition to Dazaifu. Both are relatively close to Fukuoka but in different directions.
Due to limited time we only had this day available to fit both areas in but I had planned it so that we could use train travel to our advantage, to be part of the experience rather than a means to an end; it would also allow us to rest and take in the picturesque scenery while getting from one place to the other. It was meant to be another fairly gentle, slow travel day after all!
Although a slower option, after checking those videos again, this route appeared to be picturesque, winding through the countryside and off-the -beaten path villages. It’s always interesting to travel on local trains on less tourist-frequented routes as you get to see real life and locals often extend their warmth by chatting briefly with you or help point out interesting things. This seemed to be the perfect option for us. However, the trains on these routes are few and far between, so careful plans need to be in place.
Unsure of what to order, we showed the lady one of the Japanese online reviews we had spotted that included a recommendation. The staff were lovely, the food was freshly cooked and very delicious; it really was the best chicken karaage we have ever had and the noodles were amazing. This set cost around 500 yen (£3.57 at time of writing).
Due to limited time we only had this day available to fit both areas in but I had planned it so that we could use train travel to our advantage, to be part of the experience rather than a means to an end; it would also allow us to rest and take in the picturesque scenery while getting from one place to the other. It was meant to be another fairly gentle, slow travel day after all!
Nanzo-in and Dazaifu in one day
To visit both in one day would mean lots of rushing back and forth via Fukuoka. It would eat time and we’d just be going through the motions to get from one place to another without the benefit of being able to visit the sites. I also checked out the train routes on YouTube (there are many route videos available) to see whether the train experience would balance this out. It appeared not, with most of the JR route to Dazaifu being very industrial as is usual around the large cities.
How to get to Nanzo-in (Sasaguri) or Dazaifu from Fukuoka.
Using a local train route as a picturesque alternative
As an alternative, instead of returning to Fukuoka, local trains can be used to loop from JR Kido Nanzo-in Mae (the station for the large Buddha) to JR Futsukaichi via Keisen and Haruda (the Nishitetsu line to Nishitetsu Dazaifu can then be picked up by transferring from the JR station to the Nishitetsu line station at Futsukaichi as normal).
Although a slower option, after checking those videos again, this route appeared to be picturesque, winding through the countryside and off-the -beaten path villages. It’s always interesting to travel on local trains on less tourist-frequented routes as you get to see real life and locals often extend their warmth by chatting briefly with you or help point out interesting things. This seemed to be the perfect option for us. However, the trains on these routes are few and far between, so careful plans need to be in place.
Nanzo-in - breathtaking and beautiful
With steely determination, my planning notebook firmly clutched in hand and our JR Northern Kyushu passes stamped to indicate their first day of validity, we set off for JR Kido Nanzo-in Mae, the nearest station to Nanzo-in temple.
Moved from its original location on Kōya-san in 1899, the temple complex sprawls up the side of a hill and includes many shrines and statues in addition to the main temple and (allegedly) the largest bronze statue in the world - the magnificent reclining Buddha.
Accessibility at Nanzo-in
There are many steps to navigate, but plenty of seats are provided to rest along the paths, so we left Fukuoka fairly early to allow plenty of time. Around the complex there is little, if any, English signage but paths and instructions are self explanatory.
Reaching the giant Buddha
After winding up through the various paths, we encountered traditional Japanese music being played by an instrumental group at the main temple building. There were a few other visitors and locals around, but it was not busy and the incense tinged atmosphere was very serene. After taking this in and catching our breath, we passed through the long tunnel and shrine dedicated to the Seven Gods of Fortune before ascending to the great Buddha. I had seen pictures before but the sight was really something to behold. The sheer size of the statue is quite breathtaking. For a short while, we were the only people at this point and it felt very special.
We had plenty of time, so returning down the steps to the main area, we decided that it might be a nice idea to take the most accessible and interesting-looking of the numerous paths leading off. There are plenty of areas to explore within the complex. I was up for it, I felt fine and everything seemed to be in working order! I was keen to test my mobility in order to make a decision on whether a visit to Kompira-san in Shikoku would be possible later in the trip.
Spotting monkeys
The climb wasn't too bad. There was an area to sit some way up, before the path wound around a bend and on up through the forest to a shrine. I was sure I had read somewhere that monkeys could be spotted in this area so, making excuses to rest for a while, we sat and watched for them. We didn’t see any!
Then, a weather alert pop up on my ‘phone that heavy rain was on its way in half an hour. That was motivation to get on the move again. I decided to push on a little way further towards the shrine at the top only to find that the bend hid just a few more steps and we were there! Typical!
It felt good to have made it but getting increasingly shaky, I was looking forward to getting to the bottom again. The descent was definitely easier and the views were stunning.
JR Kido Nanzo-in Mae station
With the possibility of rain, we headed to the station in hope we could find somewhere for an early lunch in the area before heading off. There was little else in the immediate vicinity, a souvenir shop or two and a couple of cafe/restaurants but most appeared to be closed during our visit.
The station was wonderful though, an old waiting room had wooden benches adorned with pretty fabric cushions and shelves full of interesting looking Japanese books. Here too was a small shop of souvenirs, run by a couple of ladies who also made fresh and delicious takoyaki (octopus balls) to order.
When locals came in to buy them before waiting for their trains, we knew we were on to a good thing.
On the other side of the hallway, the station master was helpful and friendly and ably assisted by the station cat, who was very keen to make friends. I obliged and still like to think it had absolutely nothing to do with any lingering smell of takoyaki on my hands!
Moving on to Keisen station.
Travelling on the local loop
Rather than wait for the train that would take us through to Haruda directly, we decided to move further along the line to Keisen Station, the terminal of the JR Sasaguri Line, where we could pick up the same Haruda train but benefit from more lunch options and amenities during the wait. The journey was short but I was already looking forward to taking the rest of the route, judging by the surroundings.
Roadside udon noodles & karaage chicken
John found some details of Daisuke Udon, a restaurant with great reviews online and promised me that it wasn’t far from the station. After walking for about 15 minutes in the rain, we ended up on a major highway where there was an assortment of roadside restaurants, huge gaming arcades and shops.
It was a fast moving place, as workmen, business people and travellers came and went in bursts.
Good food but don't miss the train!
We were a bit worried about whether we would get back to the station in time but were having a great experience, so decided that if we missed the train, we would just head back to Fukuoka on one of the more frequent trains of the Sasaguri Line and go to plan B, heading to Dazaifu from there. When we finished our food, the rain had finally stopped and we headed back to the station with a little more energy, pleased to make it back just in time.
Signalling issues & suspended trains
An animated station employee greeted us with an ominous black folder full of translations in English for various situations (now referred to as 'the folder of doom'). My heart sunk and every bit of Japanese I had learned vacated my brain. All trains had been suspended. Every single one. We were stranded.
Sadly, my attempts to find out whether the situation was temporary or permanent did not work and I was stupidly too busy trying to remember the right vocabulary to think about using translate on my phone. I assumed the insistence of ‘you can’t go’ in addition to the response of the locals to the news imparted by the employee meant it was permanent. I'd never seen Japanese people get irritated before so knew it couldn't be good news.
Trying to make sense of a Japanese local bus timetable.
To some degree we were lucky that we had moved away from Kido Nanzo-in Mae, as Keisen is on a bus route and there were a few taxis around if needed; the cost would have been huge, so it would have been a last resort. We stood at the bus stop nearest to the station and pondered the various, very complicated timetables. Here Google Translate came in handy, as did the route planner on the Nishitetsu Bus website. Thank goodness for having SIM cards for our phones.
Eventually we devised a plan and we were set. A local bus to Iizuka, where we could then transfer on to an express bus to Hakata Bus Terminal. It was going to take many hours and I was worried that we might need to book tickets in advance for the express bus, but it would be an adventure. Right?!
On the move again...or not...
We had waited for a good hour or so and with literally 2 minutes until our (infrequent) bus was due, we heard an announcement from the nearby train station speakers. John, being 'in the know' about train related things, realised that the signals had changed along the line and decided to make a run for it to see if the trains were operating. I wasn’t so sure - if we missed the bus and there were no trains then we’d be stuck for ages again.
Happily, as we entered the station, the cheerful (but possibly quite stressed) station employee threw his arms in the air in triumph and gleefully told us that we could go now, but the next Haruda train would not leave for another few hours. There was a Fukuoka train due though. We were happy enough with that and boarded with relief….. until we came to a grinding halt part way into the journey...and again...and again as the train edged on its way. There were clearly some major signalling issues and it took hours to get back to Fukuoka.
Exploring with a plan B
Sadly, we didn’t get to experience Dazaifu in the end, so we’ll save it for another trip to Japan. We were safe, dry and full of delicious food and memories though. I do regret not getting the bus in a way - not because the trains were having issues but it would have been a mad adventure of discovery and those are what make fantastic journeys.
I'd highly recommend getting off the guidebook routes, but be sure to have a plan B in place and connectivity for your internet enabled device!
Travel Resources (in English):
Hyperdia - Japanese train timetable, fare and route search.
Nishitetsu Bus - Nishitetsu train & bus information + timetables.
JR Kyushu Railway Co - information on JR trains and passes in the Kyushu region.
