How (not to) travel to Japan on a budget.
How a budget return flight to Tokyo turned into a 7 country travel adventure! Find out how not to travel to Japan on a budget like us in July 2015. A cautionary tale of the pleasures, trials, tribulations and hard lessons learned, including useful tips and practical information on the routes and transfers taken...
(originally published in 2017 - not updated)
Picture the scene. 2015 and we weren’t planning a holiday let alone to visit Japan. I'd been taken ill a while before and our son had moved away to university in the meantime. We'd had to cancel existing holiday plans along with any idea of having a break for some time.
As you do when you’re daydreaming of some respite, even when you don't think it’s going to really happen, we started searching for budget flight options to anywhere that looked interesting and practical online. An offer popped up with a reputable provider and the lure of a £250 return flight to Tokyo was too hard to resist. We got a bit carried away. After a bit of research on the potential for budget accommodation, transportation and living costs, the button was pushed and we were booked. Oops!
£250 return. Too good to be true?
I’ve looked at this in more detail in my post, 'Japan - the tried & tested tips of a budget traveller', but, as always, the general rule of thumb is that the more hoops you jump through, the cheaper you can get a flight.This route certainly had a lot of hoops to jump though, with multiple transfers, tight schedules and strict caveats regarding the validity of the ticket for the return trip should any of the outward transfers be missed.
There are certainly pros and cons and you need to be sure of what you’re getting into! What suits one person is not necessarily a good fit for another.
Our journey.
Outward bound.
The flight ticket took us from Vienna to Amsterdam, Amsterdam to Osaka Kansai (KIX) and Osaka International Airport (Itami) to Tokyo Haneda. On the return leg, the route was similar but we managed to squeeze in an extra flight from Bratislava to the UK too. We thought this was a one off trip and possibly the first and last break we’d get together - for some time anyway - so decided to make an adventure of the whole journey...that incredible journey! I’m acyually feeling exhausted just writing about it!
UK to Brussels - Eurostar.
First things first - we needed to get from the UK to Vienna. Wanting to keep the costs down in addition to watching the world go by, we opted to use privileges we hold for reduced train travel rather than buy another flight; a budget flight would have been cheaper otherwise.
An unsociably early train got us to London and we made the Eurostar to Brussels just in time, but not without John somehow losing his belt going through security. We were doomed to be dogged by potential loose trouser indiscretion and much tired, irrational analysis of how this could have happened for the rest of the journey. Breakfast on the train soon took our mind off it though.
An unsociably early train got us to London and we made the Eurostar to Brussels just in time, but not without John somehow losing his belt going through security. We were doomed to be dogged by potential loose trouser indiscretion and much tired, irrational analysis of how this could have happened for the rest of the journey. Breakfast on the train soon took our mind off it though.
Arrival in Brussels saw us bathed in a continental heatwave. We had left the UK in the rain and cold. I hadn’t been out of the house for 18 months. This was a real shock, but a good way to adjust to the expected stifling humidity and heat of Japan in July. Thankfully we didn't have long to wait until our next train.
Brussels to Cologne - Deutsche Bahn ICE
We had a short wait for the ICE train to Cologne - we’ve used this route a couple of times before and it’s always been efficient and comfortable.
This was no exception and got us to Cologne with quite a bit of time to spare before our night train to Vienna. We stashed our cases in the underground lockers and grabbed a quick lunch from the station food court.
To be totally honest, although we dearly love Germany, Cologne has never been one of our favourite places (the Christmas markets are very good though) so we weren’t too worried about getting out and about. The station is central, right next door to the famous cathedral and with a heavy, cramped travel schedule the city seemed a better option than staying put; we braved the heat for a quick wander and also to pick up food and drink supplies for our overnight journey. This consisted mostly of wine, which gives some indication of our mood at this point.
Cologne - Vienna - Austrian Railways ÖBB EuroNight sleeper train (now replaced by Nightjet).
To get an idea of this journey, The Man in Seat 61 has info & pictures on his site plus some video on his YouTube channel.
Sadly, we were too late to book one of the 3 person sleeper cabins with its own bathroom facilities, there are only a few of these and you need to be on the ball if you want one. We were told that they can get block booked by tour operators and judging by the multiple tour groups that boarded, this may have been what happened.
We booked a standard 4 berth couchette, paying the going rate for the 4th berth, which meant nobody else would have the unfortunate experience of having to share with us - plus it gave us extra room for our luggage.
We booked a standard 4 berth couchette, paying the going rate for the 4th berth, which meant nobody else would have the unfortunate experience of having to share with us - plus it gave us extra room for our luggage.
The cabin was tiny but functional, as expected. Somehow it had been allocated in the middle of a carriage occupied by a school trip of very excitable young children who seemed to keep forgetting which cabin was which and banging on the door constantly throughout the journey. It was not a comfortable or restful night but on the whole, the journey and experience were pleasurable. I'd quite like to do it again but only if we could book a sleeper cabin - I now know that this kind of couchette is not really suitable for my increasing mobility problems.
After a complimentary breakfast, we arrived at Vienna Meidling Station. We needed to take a train to Vienna Westbahnhof from where our hotel was within easy walking and luggage-pulling distance. We hopped on the first train to arrive, which happened to be the night train travelling through from Bucharest. They’d obviously had an interesting trip too - so much so that the passageway had been used as a toilet for both types of ablution. By this point I was wondering whether I just wanted to turn around and go home...as long as it was a quick and easy flight!
Once we entered the chilled atmosphere of our hotel we started to feel more positive, the staff were outstandingly helpful and we spent some time in the beautiful hotel garden having a coffee and working out what we would (or could) do for the rest of the day in the scorching 40 degree heat.
We love Austria and have regularly spent time there in the past but have never visited the capital. We’d be here for a couple of days to have a quick look around (and get some sleep!)
Vienna Hotel & Food Info
We stayed at the Pension Stadthalle Wien, a budget hotel that is just a few minutes walk away from its big sister, the eco-friendly Boutiquehotel Stadthalle Wien. The larger hotel facilitates check in and offers use of its garden and breakfast service to Pension Stadthalle customers. The customer service and location were excellent, being near to Westbahnhof Station, shops, the airport bus, trams and the wonderful family run inn, Gasthaus Elsner, where we ate both nights - amazing hospitality & fantastic traditional Austrian food. Highly recommended!Vienna Westbahnhof Station to Vienna International Airport
Bus transfer using Vienna Airport Lines (Postbus) from the stops just outside Westbahnhof Station to the airport was efficient, taking approximately 40 minutes (€8 at the time). We bought tickets in advance at the automated machines inside Westbahnhof train station - the date of validity could be chosen to suit, so there was no need to queue in the morning.
Vienna to Amsterdam. KLM
We were travelling backwards from Vienna to Amsterdam to go forwards again. Initially, we had enquired as to whether we could miss this portion and check in directly at Amsterdam Schiphol Airport but were advised that this would have broken the terms of the ticket and the rest of our tickets would have been cancelled - there was no flexibility.
Schiphol is a huge airport but easy to navigate; the transfer process was very easy and efficiently processed. We only had a relatively short wait before our flight, which meant that I didn’t have time to worry too much about the long flight to come.
Schiphol is a huge airport but easy to navigate; the transfer process was very easy and efficiently processed. We only had a relatively short wait before our flight, which meant that I didn’t have time to worry too much about the long flight to come.
Amsterdam - Osaka Kansai International Airport (KIX), Japan. KLM
This was a great flight that was comfortable and had a lovely crew. I was particularly surprised at the quietness in the aircraft; I usually use earplugs to block out background noise but no need this time. The food was pretty good and the entertainment options extensive. It certainly didn’t feel like we’d been in the air for 11 - 12 hours. At that time, it was the longest flight I’d ever taken and I was very impressed.
A transfer in Osaka.
Kansai International Airport to Osaka International Airport.
In our excitable state during booking we hadn’t realised (but became painfully aware of soon after) that there are two airports on opposite sides of Osaka city. Kansai International (KIX), situated to the south heading towards Wakayama, and Osaka International Airport (Itami) in the north (which despite being called 'international' only handles domestic flights - the name wasn't changed when services were swapped over to Kansai International Airport).
We would need to transfer across from KIX to Itami with no margin for any time delays or issues - if we missed the transfer we were being told that all further legs, including the return flights, would be automatically cancelled. That transfer in Osaka looked like it would be impossible, especially given that we had to collect our luggage and clear immigration.
Amazingly the luggage came instantaneously and ours was the first off the carousel. However, when we found ourselves in an almighty queue to process through immigration, we gave up any hope and thought we’d have to go with our plan B, which was to validate our JR passes and use the train to Tokyo in the hope that we would be able to straighten the issue with the airline to avoid cancellation of our return flights.
I’m not sure I should admit this but I have been known to watch the occasional episode of Border Force Security in the past - based on that, I hate to think what security must have thought of our body language as we were waiting; frantically checking out watches, fidgeting, looking worried and sweating a bit, it was no wonder the dogs were brought over to give us a quick once over!
We would need to transfer across from KIX to Itami with no margin for any time delays or issues - if we missed the transfer we were being told that all further legs, including the return flights, would be automatically cancelled. That transfer in Osaka looked like it would be impossible, especially given that we had to collect our luggage and clear immigration.
Amazingly the luggage came instantaneously and ours was the first off the carousel. However, when we found ourselves in an almighty queue to process through immigration, we gave up any hope and thought we’d have to go with our plan B, which was to validate our JR passes and use the train to Tokyo in the hope that we would be able to straighten the issue with the airline to avoid cancellation of our return flights.
I’m not sure I should admit this but I have been known to watch the occasional episode of Border Force Security in the past - based on that, I hate to think what security must have thought of our body language as we were waiting; frantically checking out watches, fidgeting, looking worried and sweating a bit, it was no wonder the dogs were brought over to give us a quick once over!
Suddenly, they opened a new channel and we were called over. In stress mode, I was now concerned that we might be delayed due to processing the medications we were carrying - the rules for taking taking medications into Japan are incredibly strict but I had all the necessary paperwork needed ready just in case.
Luckily, everything went smoothly and we were able to make a run for the one and only scheduled transfer bus that had the possibility of getting us to Itami on time for the next flight. We were prepared and had researched both the route from arrivals to the transfer bus stop and how to obtain the necessary tickets to minimise any delay.
We got to the bus with literally a minute to spare - the efficiency of transportation in Japan means there's generally no chance of it waiting. The transfer took about 80 minutes which we spent experiencing waves of alternating shock that we’d actually made it onto the bus and sleep.
We got to the bus with literally a minute to spare - the efficiency of transportation in Japan means there's generally no chance of it waiting. The transfer took about 80 minutes which we spent experiencing waves of alternating shock that we’d actually made it onto the bus and sleep.
Osaka Itami - Tokyo Haneda - ANA
Having succeeded in managing the difficulties we thought we’d have, the biggest now would be navigating the ones we couldn't foresee. Processes for travelling on domestic flights in Japan are a little different, especially when you’re not still quite sure where in the world you are. Our luggage needed to be checked in and the young lady got a little confused at our complicated ticket - she wasn’t the only one!
For a fleeting moment, we thought that having got this far everything was going to go wrong. She was brilliant though, and sorted it all out with cool, calm, professional authority. No fuss, no bother, no rolling of eyes - very refreshing!
For a fleeting moment, we thought that having got this far everything was going to go wrong. She was brilliant though, and sorted it all out with cool, calm, professional authority. No fuss, no bother, no rolling of eyes - very refreshing!
We got through security and finally had time to see and absorb our surroundings for the first time; we were hit with the realisation that we were somewhere very different. Knowing little of the language at that time, we didn’t understand announcements or know what the boarding process was but followed everyone else and were guided by the professional and supportive gate staff.
We found ourselves on another large plane but this time with only a few passengers. I think they were getting the plane into the correct place for its next flight. By this point, I couldn’t care less about flying and it felt like getting on a bus. Woozy with jet lag we took off to a line of ANA staff waving and bowing from the tarmac. We were excited and ready for our proper adventure now ....and a great adventure it was! The journey was tiring and stressful at times but certainly worth the effort.
The Return.
Homeward bound.
Tokyo Haneda - Fukuoka - ANA
The return followed a similar pattern, except the domestic hub for the international flight was Fukuoka. This time we had a typhoon imposing problems on our domestic flight and most other flights travelling in the same direction were being cancelled. Preparing for a hair-raising journey, we took off and only just made the connection at Fukuoka airport, which also included a terminal transfer. The flight was great though - one of the smoothest of all!
Fukuoka - Amsterdam - KLM
After booking, and giving some thought to what we were letting ourselves in for, we’d asked if we would be able to offload our luggage in Amsterdam - we would have liked to take a cheap flight or train to the UK rather than fly all the way back to Vienna only to have to double back on ourselves. Sadly, this was only possible at great expense (around £150 - £200 per bag) so was not an option.
Again, the transfer system was very easy and efficient and we settled in for a fairly long wait until our next flight. It was so frustrating to hear announcements for flights departing direct for the UK knowing we had two more to go.
Again, the transfer system was very easy and efficient and we settled in for a fairly long wait until our next flight. It was so frustrating to hear announcements for flights departing direct for the UK knowing we had two more to go.
Amsterdam - Vienna - KLM
Cranky with jet lag and feeling physically spent, this short, bumpy flight was not the best I’d experienced. I was glad to touch down even though we faced another laborious step and the one that took the whole escapade a step too far; so close to home but really the straw that broke the camel’s back...
Vienna - Bratislava - private hire car.
We were under some time pressure to get back to the UK so didn’t have the option to stay in the area. Due to the evening arrival in Vienna, there was no opportunity to fly direct to the UK to make a transfer back home that night. Bratislava in Slovakia is just over the nearby Austrian border and offers budget flights direct into our local airport. In fact, it makes a great alternative for visiting Vienna. Sadly, the schedule of the airport transfer bus that operates between the two airports did not marry with our departure, so we arranged a taxi in advance. The cost was reasonable but obviously added to the ticket price.
After waiting for what seemed a lifetime for our luggage, we exited to find the driver waiting for us (but about to give up). The walk from arrivals to the car park and bus stops at Vienna Airport is quite a long one; the friendly driver was clearly more energetic than us and we rushed, trying to keep up with him to the car. Luggage loaded and off we went in the very comfortable and smart BMW for the short journey across the border. Immediately we hit heavy traffic, but it kept moving and we arrived with sufficient time to make our flight.
Bratislava - UK - Ryanair.
On arrival at Bratislava Airport we were disheartened to find our flight was very significantly delayed. By this point we were painfully tired and, mixed with the sweltering heat of the airport, the lack of information, any comfortable seating or appropriate facilities to get a drink, we were finally regretting the route we’d decided to take. John had a new belt for his trousers though, so at least we didn’t have that to deal with!
The less said about this truly awful flight the better. Needless to say, we eventually arrived into the UK during the early hours of the next morning and were relieved to get home, promising that we’d definitely visit Japan again as soon as possible but that we’d definitely take a more direct route.
The less said about this truly awful flight the better. Needless to say, we eventually arrived into the UK during the early hours of the next morning and were relieved to get home, promising that we’d definitely visit Japan again as soon as possible but that we’d definitely take a more direct route.
Learning curve.
On the whole, the travel was an experience rather than adventure. With extra costs involved, we would have been better taking a more direct flight but we did learn a lot about what works and what doesn’t for us personally. There’s no one good fit for everybody - my advice would be to assess the terms, flight transfers and possible extra costs carefully before clicking that book button!
At the time of writing in 2017 we have visited Japan twice since this trip and the subsequent journeys were almost too simple in comparison! We have still kept costs down by using a ticket that flies from our local airport to Tokyo Narita with an easy transfer in Dusseldorf; the extra £150 was a price worth paying to avoid the stresses and additional costs we experienced the first time.
