A Cake Lover's Guide to Japan

A guide to Japanese cake & dessert

Think of Japanese food and sushi may spring to mind. What you might not think of straight away is patisserie. Complimenting its collective sweet tooth and booming coffee culture, Japan is jam-packed full of cakey goodness.

(originally published in 2017)

Pop culture to pastry masterpieces.

In an environment where the fast-moving business of seasonal trend and popular culture are king, baked goods are prolific and trends are reflected in sweet, spongy delights to capture the market.

From the quirky, prepackaged offerings of the convenience stores through to the pastry masterpieces of hard-core artisan patisserie, there is something for everyone. There are even all-you-can-eat cake cafes!

Convenience store strawberry roll cake for Setsubun Festival.

Outstanding quality & culinary skill.

Whether mass produced or artisan-made, one thing seems to be certain -  the quality is fantastic and they are delicious. Cakes and the attention to quality and detail paid to them are taken very seriously indeed; it is no surprise that Asia’s top pastry chef of 2017, Kazutoshi Narita, hails from Japan.

Gluten free.

Japan isn’t well known for its patisserie prowess, neither is it known for its accessibility to gluten free food...and that’s because it’s pretty difficult to find it there due to many of the staple ingredients containing the offending stuff (soy sauce for instance). However, dietary restrictions, including the need for gluten free options, seem to be increasingly embraced of late. In fact, if you cannot eat gluten then you will be pleased to know that there are a number of gluten free cafes springing up. The online magazine, Japan Wireless, has a great article on their site with details.

Dessert-licious?!

The first time we visited Japan, I didn’t notice all the bakeries and patisserie shops because I was in too much awe of everything else - plus it was hot - very, very July-humid-and-typhoon hot. The last thing we found ourselves doing was frequenting coffee shops of dessert-licious (is that a word? Hmm - I’ll use it anyway!) discovery, opting more for freezing isotonic drinks and shaved ice.

A foodie alternative to a map app.

The second time we went, we not only noticed them but used the frequency of the bakery outlets around train stations like breadcrumb trails to find our way between locations like a foodie version of google maps. We had to sample some of the goods too...just for research purposes - obviously!

Thorough research should be done - and I volunteer!

The third time we went, we made much more use of the opportunities available to us! If you have read any of my other posts about Japan (and you definitely should if you haven’t yet!) then eating cake seems to figure fairly regularly. In the future, I’m determined to do a proper patisserie research food tour. What a great excuse to indulge!

This looks like a contender!

Where & how.

Counter bakeries & department store counters.

From whole celebration cakes to individual slices, if you want to see (and eat) exquisite patisserie then visit the department store food halls, often found at basement level.

Some you will walk past and wonder who could afford to purchase them and others will leave you perplexed at how they can be sold for such a reasonable price.

Here in the UK we tend to be hardwired to see incredible, unique pastries in fancy stores and relate them to being sky-high expensive, so we circle past. Not so in Japan (although there are some speciality, exclusive ones) and you will find (in most cases) that the prices aren’t too bad.

Patisserie chain stores that sell largely perishable goods over the counter can also be found on the high street and at rail stations.

Self serve bakeries and supermarkets.

Self-serve Bakeries abound and can be found everywhere, especially around train stations, in malls and shopping streets. Larger supermarkets have vast bakery sections too.

Self serve bakery store at JR Kochi Train Station

These shops have a wide range of savoury and sweet pastries and offer fewer fragile, perishable cakes. Some produce fresh or limited edition goods at defined times, so you need to be in the know and be ready to queue and/or be allotted a voucher for your turn to purchase.

Top tips for using self-serve bakeries

• Pick up tray and tongs as you enter
• Follow the flow of people around the displays and place your desired items on the tray
• Take the tray to the till - queue until called.
• If the bakery also has a seated area, you’ll be asked if you want any drinks and if you’re eating in.
• The assistant will swiftly and meticulously package your items first individually and then in a box and ring up on the till.
• Pay using the coin dish on the counter. Leave the tray and tongs at the counter - they will be cleaned and replaced by the door.

In supermarkets, you may need to bag and label your selection up - everything is provided on a small table.

Japanese supermarket bakery counter

Cafes.

The growing coffee culture in Japan brings with it cafes and restaurants that either specialise in cake or have a complimentary offering/menu.

A word about smoking.

Japanese cafes and restaurants can be smoky. They may have non-smoking and smoking areas, so you need to indicate accordingly when you enter. If you want or need to stay away from smoke then bear this in mind - even the non-smoking areas of some can get quite smoky. On an individual basis, some food establishments in Japan are making progress with restricting smoking and smoking indoors may be banned in the future but, for now, smoke may be inevitable when you eat out.

Top tips for using cafes.

• You’ll either be shown where to sit and given a menu or invited to a counter to choose - you may even be invited to choose your own cup or plate. Many different and unique establishments exist!
• Sometimes you order and pay before sitting and the items will be brought (unless fully self service).
• As always in Japan, don’t tip.

A quick tour of Japan via my favourite Japanese cakes (so far!)

Japanese baked cheesecake

Japanese cheesecake

Available from department store counters and shops such as the chain Ginza Cozy Corner.  Japanese cheesecake comes in two varieties - the unbaked version is light and has a thin sponge base. My favourite is the baked version though; this has a dense, dry texture and a more substantial base. By far, better than any cheesecake we’ve tried elsewhere….we’re still travelling and trying though!

Strawberry shortcake sponge

Strawberry shortcake sponge

Strawberries are a prime commodity in Japan and have cute & cult status, as you will find at certain times of the year when they feature on and in absolutely everything.

Celebrations and strawberry season

At Christmas, the Japanese Christmas cake usually consists of strawberry sponge with lots of whipped cream and fresh strawberries (topped with a festive snowman/Santa combo of course!).

As winter comes to a close and the advent of spring brings the first strawberry harvests, strawberry goods become prolific - even strawberry and cream sandwiches (yes - with white bread, crusts removed) appear on the shelves.

Japanese festive sponge & strawberry cake

Kazeboukou, the strawberry cafe.

On Shikoku, the milder climate of the southern Kochi prefecture supports agriculture; the abundant harvest from field and sea results in an incredible food culture. In the Tosa Kure area of Nakatosa Town, Kazekoubou is a cafe and shop that specialises in baked goods made from the local strawberry harvest. It has reached legendary status and our visit there at the end of January, just as the first strawberries were appearing, allowed us to test their confections. Outstanding!

Strawberry roll cake at Kazeboukou strawberry cafe in Shikoku, Japan

Artisan matcha & fruit, praline & chocolate.

Meijiyumean, Kami-Arita.

Stumbling around on the edge of Arita in Kyushu, a town world famous for its porcelain, we happened across Meijiyumean; it is a wonderful, artistic shop and cafe that serves its food and drink using local porcelain. The place was gorgeous and the atmosphere was wonderful.

Not only did they serve on Arita Ware but the pastries were phenomenal. To be honest, the certificates from Le Cordon Bleu on the wall hinted that it could be something special and it was.

The cakes were like an explosion of artistry, western influence and Japanese flavour - with unique skill and creativity thrown in. There were a number of different options to choose from and, having made our choice and settled for a set with coffee, we were not expecting to get the extra treats too! Everything was perfect.

Praline cake set at Mejiyumean cafe in Kami-Arita Japan

Matcha controversy.

Just like strawberry, matcha flavoured goods are everywhere in Japan. However, I think there’s a fine line between it being used because it evokes a concept of 'Japanese' and because it tastes good. This matcha and fruit cake, plus the matcha cookie received with the praline cake, definitely brought something to the party. This remains one of the stand-out food experiences of our trip. You can read more about it in the post: Arita & Okawachiyama - a journey into the art & heart of porcelain.

Matcha & fresh fruit cake set at Mejiyumean cafe in Kami-Arita

Kochi hat bread.

Kochi hat bread

Hat bread is, I believe, exclusive to Kochi in Shikoku and is available from bakeries in the area (there is a good one at the main JR rail station). It looks like a UFO  but is a light, spongy bread confection in the middle with a crispy sponge ring around the outside.

It's hard to explain - but then it’s not really like anything else I’ve ever had. Very tasty, slightly sweet and filling, it’s great for breakfast on the go.

Castella.

Castella, a speciality of Nagisaki, Kyushu

These firm but light sponge cakes may appear with flavourings or filling. They are a speciality of Nagasaki where they were introduced back in the 16th century by Portuguese merchants. Massively popular and a favourite souvenir from the region, they can also be found outside of Nagasaki in branches of its most famous producer, Fukusaya, in Fukuoka, Tokyo and department store food halls.

Donuts or Doughnuts?

Misaki Donuts.

Random stock photo of donuts similar to Misaki donuts..because I ate mine too quickly!

Misaki Donuts is well known for its delicious ring donuts with various toppings and there are a few shops around Kanagawa Prefecture, including at Yokohama and Kamakura. However, when we ventured out of Tokyo on a day trip to Jogashima Island & Misaki we decided to also do what everyone else (judging by Tripadvisor) does and visit the original shop for a bite to eat, especially as the town was mostly closed and we were finding it hard to get something more substantial (yeah - great excuse to eat cake again - I know!) We ate in the shop and warmed up with a coffee. They are totally moreish - but I was dragged away before I could suggest we bought an assortment to take away...for my own good I suppose!

Yanaka ‘cats tails’.

Cat tail donut from Yanaka in Tokyo Japan

Yanaka is one of my favourite districts in Tokyo - and not just because it’s possible to buy cat tail donuts. Think along the lines of the Misaki donuts but straight. There are lots of flavours to choose from at this hole-in-the wall shop. The only problem you will have is choosing which to buy and then having to go back to the end of the usually lengthy queue to get more!

Melon Pan.

Melon Pan - not a melon but is it cake or bread?

I’m not sure if this is strictly a cake or bread. Pan means bread, but these large, (allegedly) melon-shaped buns are soft and sweet under the crisp outer. I was really confused at first, because I thought they were meant to taste of melon (I'm ashamed!) but they are available in many, many flavours and can be found absolutely everywhere nationwide. My favourite is cinnamon, eaten warm and fresh. That is definitely not melon!

Last but not least - Taiyaki a dubious contender...

Japanese taiyaki snack - definitely not fishy!

Another contender for listing in the dubious cake category is Taiyaki. The original type is crispy and filled with red bean paste but this fish-shaped snack can often be found with a thicker, fluffy sponge/pancake outer stuffed with a filling of custard or bean paste. Huge and delicious, they can be found from shops, markets and festival food stalls.


I hope you have enjoyed this quick culinary tour around Japan - where have you had great cake on your travels?